Home Golf Simulator Setup Guide: Complete Breakdown | Golf Gear Ranked

I’ve helped friends and readers build over 30 home golf simulators in the last four years. The most common mistake? Buying the launch monitor first and figuring out the room second. That $2,000 device is useless if you’ve got 7-foot ceilings and a concrete wall where your impact screen should go.

This guide walks through every component in the order you should actually think about them. We’ll cover specific measurements, real product recommendations at multiple price points, and the stuff nobody tells you until you’ve already made an expensive mistake.

Start With Your Space — Everything Else Depends on It

The room dictates everything. Not your budget, not which launch monitor you want — the room. I’ve seen guys drop $5,000 on a Trackman setup only to realize their garage ceiling clips a full driver swing.

Minimum Dimensions That Actually Work

Here are the real minimums, not the marketing minimums:

Ceiling height: 9 feet minimum for most golfers. If you’re over 6’2”, you really want 10 feet. I’m 5’11” and I’ve hit my ceiling at 9 feet with a driver — it happens when you swing a bit steep.
Width: 12 feet minimum. You need room to address the ball without feeling like you’re in a phone booth, plus space for the screen frame on both sides.
Depth: 16 feet minimum from hitting position to the back wall. Your launch monitor needs space behind or beside you, and you need room behind the screen for the projector to throw a big enough image.

The ideal setup? 10-foot ceilings, 15 feet wide, 18-20 feet deep. That gives you breathing room for everything and lets taller friends swing comfortably.

The Ceiling Test You Should Do Right Now

Grab a club — your driver specifically — and go stand in the room you’re considering. Take your normal address position and slowly bring the club to the top of your backswing. Now add 3 inches of clearance above the clubhead. That’s your real minimum ceiling height.

If you’re in a basement with drop ceiling tiles, you can often remove them and gain 4-6 inches. I’ve done this in three builds and it’s made the difference between “barely works” and “totally comfortable.”

Flooring Matters More Than You Think

Concrete is fine — most garage and basement builds are on concrete. But if you’re on a wood subfloor on a second story, you need to think about vibration and noise for anyone below you. A quality hitting mat absorbs a lot of impact, but repeated driver swings on a thin mat over hardwood will annoy everyone in the house and potentially damage the floor.

Skip carpet if you can. It bunches under mats, creates uneven lies, and gets destroyed by foot traffic in the hitting area. Rubber gym flooring tiles ($1-2/sq ft) are the best base layer I’ve found.

The Impact Screen: Your Most Important Safety Decision

This is not the place to cut corners. A bad impact screen means a golf ball coming back at you or punching through into your projector, wall, or window. I’ve personally witnessed a ball go through a cheap bedsheet setup someone tried as a “temporary” screen. It embedded itself in drywall.

Screen Materials and What to Buy

Woven polyester screens are the standard for home simulators. They absorb ball impact, reduce bounce-back, and provide a good projection surface. Here’s what I recommend at each level:

Budget ($150-300): Carl’s Place Standard Impact Screen. It’s the most popular for a reason — good impact absorption, decent projection quality, and it holds up well. I’ve got one in my own setup that’s taken thousands of hits over two years with no signs of failure.
Mid-range ($300-600): Carl’s Place Premium or HomeCourse Pro Screen. Tighter weave means better image quality and less light bleed. The difference is noticeable if your room isn’t completely dark.
High-end ($600-1,200+): SwingBay or AllSport screens built into full enclosure systems. These are commercial-grade materials that give you the sharpest projected image.

Screen Size: Bigger Is (Actually) Better

For a driver swing with any kind of miss, you want at least a 10-foot wide by 8-foot tall screen. A pushed or pulled shot needs to still hit the screen, not fly into the wall beside it.

The screen should hang about 12-18 inches in front of the wall. This “give” absorbs ball energy. A screen mounted flush against a wall will wear out faster and bounce balls back harder.

Frame Options

You’ve got three choices:

DIY PVC frame ($50-80): Works fine for lighter screens. Won’t win any beauty contests. I’d use 1.5” Schedule 40 PVC minimum.
DIY metal conduit frame ($80-150): Sturdier, cleaner look. EMT conduit from the hardware store with corner connectors.
Pre-built metal frame ($200-500): Carl’s Place and others sell frames that bolt together in 30 minutes. Worth it if you hate DIY.

Pro tip: Add side netting or side baffles. Even good golfers hit wayward shots, especially when they’re working on swing changes. A $40 piece of side netting can save you from a broken window or a hole in the drywall.

Hitting Mats: Where Your Joints Meet Your Budget

A good mat does two things: it simulates turf so your practice transfers to the course, and it protects your wrists, elbows, and shoulders from the repeated shock of hitting off a hard surface.

I can’t stress this enough — a cheap mat will hurt you. Not in a dramatic, one-swing injury way. In a gradual, cumulative “why does my elbow ache every morning” way. I hit off a thin, hard mat for one winter and dealt with golfer’s elbow for six months after.

Mat Recommendations by Budget

Budget ($150-300): Fiberbuilt Flight Deck (the small standalone version). It uses a grass-turf-over-foam system that has genuine give. You can take real divots without the “hitting off concrete” feeling. It’s only about 2x3 feet, so you’ll need to build a platform around it or pair it with a larger base mat.

Mid-range ($300-600): TrueStrike Golf Mat or Fiberbuilt Player Preferred Series. The TrueStrike uses a gel-filled divot section that mimics real turf interaction. The Fiberbuilt gives you a larger surface area with that same forgiving foam base. Both are excellent. I hit off a TrueStrike for a full season and my contact improved noticeably because I could actually feel fat shots.

High-end ($600-1,500): Fiberbuilt 4x5 Studio Mat or SwingTurf Premium. These are full-size platforms where your feet and the ball are on the same surface. Most realistic feel you’ll get indoors. If you’re hitting 200+ balls a week, this is the tier where your body will thank you.

The Tee System Matters Too

Most mats come with rubber tees or tee holes. Make sure whatever mat you buy allows you to adjust tee height easily. You should be able to go from a driver tee height (about 1.5-2 inches) down to iron level without fumbling around.

Brush tees are the best option for sim use — they last longer than rubber tees and don’t interfere with the club path. A pack of 10 is about $15.

Projectors: The Difference Between “Cool” and “Squinting”

Your projector needs to handle two things: produce a bright enough image that you can clearly see yardage numbers and ball flight, and have a short enough throw ratio that it works in your room depth.

Key Specs to Focus On

Lumens: 3,000+ lumens minimum. If your sim room has any ambient light — windows, overhead lights you can’t fully dim — go for 3,500+. I’ve tested setups with 2,500-lumen projectors and they’re fine in a pitch-black room but washed out with even a crack of light from a doorway.

Resolution: 1080p is the sweet spot. You don’t need 4K for simulator software — the text and graphics aren’t that detailed, and 4K projectors in the brightness range you need cost twice as much. Spend the difference on a better mat or launch monitor.

Throw ratio: This is the one spec people overlook. A standard throw ratio projector needs 12-15 feet of distance to create a 100-inch+ image. If your projector sits behind the screen (ceiling-mounted, projecting forward through the screen or reflected), you might not have that much room. Short-throw projectors (0.5:1 to 1.0:1 ratio) can project a large image from just 3-5 feet away.

My Projector Picks

Budget ($400-600): BenQ TH671ST. Short throw, 3,000 lumens, 1080p. This is the most commonly recommended sim projector for good reason. I’ve set up six builds with this exact model.

Mid-range ($700-1,200): Optoma GT1090HDR or BenQ TH690ST. Better color accuracy, higher brightness, and faster input lag for those who care about responsiveness in the software.

High-end ($1,500+): Optoma UHZ66 or Epson LS800. If you want 4K and laser brightness, these are the options. But honestly, I’d put that extra $1,000 toward a better launch monitor — it’ll improve your practice quality more than extra pixels.

Mounting: Ceiling vs. Floor vs. Behind Screen

Ceiling mount is the cleanest setup. The projector hangs above and behind your hitting position, projecting onto the screen. No shadow issues since the light comes from behind you. Use a universal projector mount ($30-50) rated for your projector’s weight plus a safety margin.

Floor behind screen works if you’re projecting from behind a semi-transparent screen. This avoids shadows entirely but requires a rear-projection screen material and adds depth to your room requirements.

Don’t put the projector on the floor in front of the screen facing up — you’ll cast a shadow every time you swing.

Launch Monitors: The Brain of Your Setup

This is where most people want to start, and I get it — the launch monitor is the exciting part. But now that you’ve got your room sorted, your screen up, your mat down, and your projector mounted, you can make a smart choice about which monitor fits your space.

For a full breakdown of every option, check our best launch monitors comparison page. Here’s the quick version for simulator use specifically.

What Makes a Launch Monitor “Sim Ready”

Not every launch monitor works well with simulator software. You need:

Software compatibility — Does it connect to E6 Connect, GSPro, TGC 2019, or other sim platforms?
Full shot data — Club speed, ball speed, launch angle, spin rate, and spin axis at minimum.
Reliable indoor tracking — Some radar-based units struggle with short ball flights indoors.

Budget Tier ($300-700)

The Garmin Approach R10 is the entry point for sim-capable launch monitors. At around $600, it connects to E6 Connect and Home Tee Hero. The data is reasonably accurate — I’ve tested it against a Trackman and it’s typically within 3-5% on ball speed and 1-2 degrees on launch angle. Spin numbers are estimated rather than measured, so take those with a grain of salt.

It sits behind you, which means you need about 6-8 feet of space between the device and your hitting position.

Mid Tier ($1,500-3,000)

The FlightScope Mevo Plus (around $2,000) is where simulator builds start getting serious. It’s radar-based, measures spin directly, and works with E6, GSPro, and other platforms. You get reliable data that closely matches what you’d see on a $20,000 unit — typically within 2-3% on most metrics.

The Rapsodo MLM2 Pro and Bushnell Launch Pro (Foresight GC3 engine) live in this range too. The Bushnell/GC3 uses photometric technology and sits beside the ball rather than behind you. This is actually better for small rooms since you don’t need the depth behind your hitting position.

High Tier ($5,000+)

The Foresight GCQuad and Trackman 4 are the gold standard. If you’ve got the budget, either one will give you tour-level data accuracy. The GCQuad sits beside the ball (better for tight spaces), while Trackman needs about 8 feet behind the hitting position.

At this level, you’re paying for consistency and precision. Every single shot is measured, not estimated. If you’re a serious player working with an instructor remotely, this data quality matters.

The Computer and Software: Tying It All Together

You need something to run the simulator software and display it through your projector. Here’s the honest truth about computing requirements.

PC vs. Laptop vs. iPad

Gaming PC ($800-1,500): Best option for the widest software compatibility and best graphics. GSPro — which is the best value sim software at $250/year — requires a Windows PC. A mid-range gaming PC with an RTX 3060 or better handles everything smoothly.

Laptop ($700-1,200): Works fine if it has a dedicated GPU. An ASUS TUF or Lenovo Legion with an RTX 3060 laptop GPU runs GSPro and E6 without issues. I’ve used a laptop in three builds where the owner didn’t want a permanent PC in the sim room.

iPad: Works with E6 Connect and some launch monitor native apps. The graphics are surprisingly good, but you’ll need an HDMI adapter to connect to the projector. It’s the simplest setup — no Windows updates, no driver issues — but you’re limited in software options.

Software Options Worth Your Money

GSPro ($250/year): The best value in sim software right now. Over 200,000 courses including Pebble Beach, St. Andrews, and Augusta National (user-created). Graphics are good, physics are solid, and the community is huge. Requires a Windows PC.

E6 Connect ($300/year or included with some launch monitors): Polished, easy to use, and compatible with almost every launch monitor including the Garmin R10. About 100 courses. Works on PC, iOS, and Android.

TGC 2019 ($900 one-time): The most realistic course graphics. Expensive upfront but no subscription. Good for those who hate recurring fees.

Awesome Golf ($180/year): Newer option that’s gaining traction. Clean interface, growing course library.

Putting It All Together: Three Complete Builds

Let me lay out three complete setups at different budgets so you can see real numbers.

The Starter Build: ~$2,500

Launch monitor: Garmin Approach R10 — $600
Screen: Carl’s Place Standard 10x8 — $200
Frame: DIY PVC — $60
Mat: Fiberbuilt Flight Deck with foam base — $250
Projector: BenQ TH671ST — $500
Computer: Used gaming laptop with GTX 1660+ — $500
Software: E6 Connect (included with R10 subscription tier) — $0-150/year
Misc (cables, rubber flooring, tees): $150

This build gets you playing full rounds on real courses in your garage. The data isn’t perfect, but it’s good enough to practice meaningfully through the winter.

The Serious Build: ~$6,000

Launch monitor: FlightScope Mevo Plus — $2,000
Screen: Carl’s Place Premium 12x9 with side nets — $400
Frame: Carl’s Place metal frame — $300
Mat: TrueStrike Golf Mat — $500
Projector: Optoma GT1090HDR — $900
Computer: Custom gaming PC (Ryzen 5, RTX 3060, 16GB RAM) — $1,000
Software: GSPro — $250/year
Misc (cables, rubber flooring, tees, projector mount): $250

This is the sweet spot where I’d put most golfers. Accurate enough data to actually improve, great visuals, and a software library that’ll keep you busy for years.

The Dream Build: ~$15,000+

Launch monitor: Foresight GCQuad — $8,000
Screen: Carl’s Place Premium 14x10 — $500
Enclosure: SwingBay full enclosure — $2,500
Mat: Fiberbuilt 4x5 Studio — $1,200
Projector: Optoma UHZ66 4K — $2,000
Computer: High-end gaming PC (Ryzen 7, RTX 4070, 32GB RAM) — $1,500
Software: FSX Pro (included with GCQuad) + GSPro — $250/year
Misc: $500

This is the “I’d rather play here than go to the range” setup. Tour-level data, gorgeous visuals, and a mat that feels like real fairway.

Common Mistakes I See Over and Over

Not accounting for ball flight behind the screen. Even with a proper screen, the ball keeps moving after impact. Leave 12+ inches between screen and wall. I’ve seen dented walls and broken projectors from screens mounted too tight.

Skipping the enclosure sides. You will hit a shank. It will happen at the worst possible time. Side netting is cheap insurance against broken stuff and domestic disputes.

Buying a launch monitor that doesn’t work with your preferred software. Check compatibility before you buy. The Garmin R10 doesn’t work with GSPro natively (you need a third-party connector). Some launch monitors only work with their proprietary software.

Ignoring ventilation. A closed garage or basement with you swinging hard for an hour gets hot and stuffy fast. A simple box fan makes a huge difference.

Forgetting about lighting. You need enough light to see your ball and mat clearly, but not so much that it washes out the projected image. LED strip lights behind or above you (not aimed at the screen) are the move.

Your Next Step

Pick your room first. Measure the ceiling, width, and depth. Write those numbers down. Then come back to this guide and work through each component knowing exactly what fits.

If you’re still deciding on the launch monitor — which is the biggest single decision in the build — check our detailed launch monitor comparisons where we break down accuracy data, software compatibility, and value at every price point. And if you want to see how specific monitors perform in real simulator setups, our FlightScope Mevo Plus review and Garmin R10 review cover exactly that.

Disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. We may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no extra cost to you. This helps us keep the site running and produce quality content.